Chengdu
From Songpan to Chengdu
The Min River traverses quite some different levels of civilization. On top of the river behind the pass live the Tibetan nomads off their yaks, 80 km farther is Songpan with its nicely restored old city center, and then all the way down is Chengdu, an ultra modern city of glass and steel.
On the trip from Songpan to Chengdu, agriculture gradually gives way to industry and an enormous dike project that obliterated several villages and the road (forcing quite a detour on us). That was one interesting aspect of the trip - the gradual change of the rugged mountain-scape (with the wild Min river) into an industrial wasteland mega construction site. They build like mad in China : 
New roads, shopping malls (complete with the little empty towers), apartments, etc., but I often think they repeat certain “quantity instead of quality” errors that have been committed in the US and Europe. I was especially struck by the epic concrete mini temples that are Chinese filling stations. Complete with arches spanning the entire complex and gleaming pumps, these petrol oases look as out of please as a peacock in a chicken coop.
New roads, shopping malls (complete with the little empty towers), apartments, etc., but I often think they repeat certain “quantity instead of quality” errors that have been committed in the US and Europe. I was especially struck by the epic concrete mini temples that are Chinese filling stations. Complete with arches spanning the entire complex and gleaming pumps, these petrol oases look as out of please as a peacock in a chicken coop. Another strenuous travel day. Some more fell ill, among them myself, which prevented me from eating or drinking. I passed the time by wetting my tongue occasionally and fantasizing about ice cold drinks...bottles of Evian, covered in pearls of condensation, spring water cold enough to freeze your Sinuses, big glasses of Apfelschorle with ice cubes and lemon slices floating in them...the lukewarm thimblefuls of Mint Water provided an approximation.
Luckily, the spell was over by the evening.
Back in the lowlands with heat and humidity, but fortunately with “Airco.”
Chengdu
We feared Beijing stress in Chengdu, but it turned out to be a pleasantly relaxed city (relatively, of course). One example: Honking is forbidden! Go Chengdu!
Our day started with the Wuhou temple, which surprisingly resembled the Chinese garden in Haren (apart from being much larger). A really nice place with golden statues of famous Buddhists (we assumed), a light, open character with many garden-bonsai trees, 
flowers, etc. We finally settled down in a nice tea garden next to a pond and spent some hours drinking tea, observing people (many Chinese families indeed seem to have only one child) and reading.
flowers, etc. We finally settled down in a nice tea garden next to a pond and spent some hours drinking tea, observing people (many Chinese families indeed seem to have only one child) and reading. We soaked up the calm in a nice teahouse, sipping the extremely strong Jasmine tea. The place, to me “felt” very Chinese. It might have been the characteristic teahouse atmosphere that contributed to the effect - sitting in bamboo chairs, an endless stream of hot water refills forthcoming...perhaps being among the Chinese at their time of leisure put us at ease, too.
We next moved to Renmin park, which also fit our ideas of Chinese parks - waterfalls, special plants, round openings in the walls. Many people were dancing, made music, played karaoke, or were just sitting down for a good cup of tea. We did the latter.
In Renmin Park, we also witnessed a sight similar to that in the Temple Of Heaven Park in Beijing: Many Chinese dancing
(everything from Tai Chi to Ballroom) and singing karaoke. The competing sound systems blasted against each other, yet the overall atmosphere was very cheerful. Many middle-aged or older people participated quite vigorously. 
(everything from Tai Chi to Ballroom) and singing karaoke. The competing sound systems blasted against each other, yet the overall atmosphere was very cheerful. Many middle-aged or older people participated quite vigorously. On the way back, a giant statue of Mao greeted everyone who wanted to be greeted, but it was only a small remnant of communism in an otherwise very capitalist city (advertisement in our restaurant: “ETS teacher sought. 8000 Yuan/month (ca. EUR 800), visas arranged, share in the profit.”
According to Dorien, Chengdu is a more liberal city than Beijing (they supported the protesters in 1990 and also were the first in granting farmers the right to own the farmland). Of course, I’m in no position to judge whether this is true or not, but Chengdu struck me as architecturally quite open and uplifting, despite the many high rise buildings. It was possible to stroll along the river, cars moved more slowly, the weather was temperate...in short, Chengdu pampered us good. We explored some nice shopping areas (they had some extremely posh stores that I didn’t dare enter in my shitty travel gear), and bought Niels a new pair of pants (he traveled with one pair, because the other was...at home).
The young inhabitants of Chengdu, like those in Beijing, are very fashion conscious and chic, with a clear thing for their own fusion of Western and Asian clothing and acessories. Many girls drive a kind of moped that makes almost no sound at all - electric motor?
Overall, Chengdu, a city of flair and leisure, was a highlight in our trip - even sweeter because it was so unexpected (we mainly regarded Chengdu as a gateway to Lhasa). Now we were ready for Tibet -- and the altitude (again!).
Chinese opera Chengdu style
A trick with masks: the face is orange, the faces is hidden, the face is blue
